Caring For and Storing Feathers

Caring for and storing feathers properly is imperative to protect and preserve
their beauty.

Feathers come in two states; natural and painted. Most painted feathers are already contoured and ready for use being either "centers", "lefts" or "rights". Even though they have been processed, they still require proper care and storage.

To understand how to care for feathers, it may be helpful to understand what a feather is. Feathers consist primarily of KERATIN, the same stuff that makes up hair and fish scales. Birds are covered by two types of feathers, contour and down. Contour feathers are made up of a long central shaft which is a hollow quill at the bottom, leading to a solid upper area called the RACHIS. From this center shaft radiates out the vane of the feather. The vane is made up of tiny barbs with barbules that link each of these "hairs" of the vane together. Rather than tearing or breaking upon impact, the barbs simply "let go" and move apart, (a bird can then refasten the barbs by running the feather through its beak). Down feathers have a shorter rachis and lack the barbs - thus their fluffy, loose appearance. Being an organic substance, feathers are prone to damage and destruction by bugs such as moths. To properly care for feathers, they should be treated and protected like wool.

Preparing Natural Feathers

The first step in preparing feathers is to remove any skin or residual material from the base of the quill where it attached to the bird. Bird skin is primarily fat which not only attracts bugs but can begin the decaying process. When obtaining natural feathers, it may sometimes be necessary to wash them. Not all feathers need washing however, so only take this step if really needed to extract dirt or debris. Using Woolite, gently swish the feathers in the soapy water while holding them by the quill base. Try to keep the vane in its natural contour. Gently and thoroughly rinse, and pat dry in a towel. When the feathers have begun to dry, it is helpful to use a blow dryer to re-fluff the bottom portion, and reshape the vane. Reconnect the barbs by gently running the feather through your thumb and index finger from the RACHIS out to the end of the vane in the natural direction of its growth. The oils in your fingers will be helpful in restoring its sheen. Once dry, it may be necessary to further reshape the barbs by holding the feather over steam.

Contouring feathers for a project, either to create a curve or straighten one, can be accomplished in a few different ways. The use of steam has been mentioned. By holding the feather over a pot of boiling water, the quill is softened to allow for manipulation. Steam is also helpful for restoring shape to the vane. Another method is to heat the quill by passing it over a warm light bulb. Ironing has also been used by the more experienced. Using the iron on the wool setting with steam is a very professional method, but some experimentation may be necessary to develop a sense of how long to apply the iron without damaging the feather. In any case take care not to get your fingers too close to the source of heat!

Whether or not you wash or manipulate your natural feathers, they must be given their first line of defense against degradation. Feathers are eaten by both microscopic and larger bugs. It should be assumed that any natural feather has been contaminated by the microscopic organisms that will eat them. The method to protect and prevent further damage is simple. Freezing is the key. Place feathers in the freezer in cycles; three times frozen and thawed. Any bugs present will be unable to survive the drastic change in temperature this many times and should be killed.

Storage of Feathers

After the initial line of defense against microscopic bugs is established, the issue of future infestation must be addressed. Many museums store their feathered items in freezers to prevent damage. The freezing process in no way hurts the feathers. Besides freezing, another enemy to munching bugs is light. Native peoples often leave possessions out in the sunlight to scatter bugs that may have taken refuge. It should be noted, however, that sunlight has its own damaging effects in the form of fading over time - especially for items that have been artificially colored.

The worst conditions to store natural materials in is dark, cramped quarters with no insect deterrent. Hair, hides, quills, feathers and wool, most of the staple materials of Native American craft work, are all vulnerable. This applies for items that are hung against a backing as well - bugs such as beetles and moth larvae will creep in behind an object where it is dark and dine away undetected.

Cedar boxes are very popular for storage of feathers and other objects. Moths detest cedar and will not lay their eggs near it. The wood of cedar must be properly protected, and it may be necessary to regenerate its properties with cedar oil. Contour feathers can be also be individually wrapped in plastic bags with moth flakes in the bottom. Moth flakes (not moth balls or crystals) will not hurt the feather as long as it is kept at the bottom of a bag. Recheck and replace the flakes as necessary as they evaporate over time.

Taking the time and effort with proper care and storage can mean the difference between life and death for a precious artifact or a beautiful feather. Protect them as they are vulnerable, so that you may enjoy their amazing durability for a long time to come.